Culture

Kazakhstan: A country with a difference

Kazakhstan is full of surprises -- tradition, culture, cuisine, natural landscape. Though its capital is Asthana, Kazakhstan's prime city is Almaty, which means land of apples.

ByJose Kalathil

Updated 12 Jul 2024, 1:30 am

(PHOTO: Author provided)
(PHOTO: Author provided)

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Air Asthana took two hours and 15 minutes only to turn Delhi's extreme weather of 42 deg C to a pleasant climate of 20 deg C in Almaty, Kazakhstan. Seven of us -- five adults and two kids - were on a family trip to the former member of the Union of the Soviet Socialist Republic (USSR) that became independent following the Union's dissolution in 1991. It is now one of the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS).
 
We chose this country for the holiday as apart from its climate, cost of living was less compared to any European country. Moreover, people were open and friendly to 'Hindustanis' as they call Indians. The country also offered visa free entry to Indians!

This government-owned airline, named after its capital, commenced operation in May 2002. It had successfully repatriated Kazakh citizens from Ukraine during the initial days of war. This ninth largest country in the world is one of the least densely populated. Its 1.96 crore citizens live in an area of 2.725 million sq. kms.  

This landlocked country is full of surprises -- tradition, culture, cuisine, natural landscape. Though its capital is Asthana, Kazakhstan's prime city is Almaty, which means land of apples.
 
We landed at the new international airport terminal that was opened only one month ago. Immigration clearance was so fast that it hardly took two minutes to get the visa stamped on the passport. As there were many counters there was hardly any queue. Since the forex counters were yet to be shifted to the new terminal we went to the old building next door to exchange US$ to local currency Tenke. (US$1 = T 440) (Rs 1 = Tenke 5.50). We exchanged $100 for instant needs like buying a sim card and hiring a cab. Rest of the dollars we preferred to change in the city where one would get a higher rate.

As soon as we came out of the building, we were surrounded by taxi drivers but we preferred to book two cars with the Yandex app that we downloaded there. We also installed Google Translate as 95 per cent of Kazakhs speak the local language or Russian. Youngsters there now can speak English.
 
The cab took half an hour to reach our destination, about 8 km away from the airport. It cost us T3,500 for each car. The bungalow that we booked through AirB&B had three rooms and other facilities including a kitchen. Its owner is a recent graduate from a Singapore university. As our accommodation was in a residential area, we could buy bread and other necessary items from a shop nearby.

After a sound sleep, we all got ready for the exciting city tour. Exactly at 8 am, our vehicle, similar to a Tempo Traveller, arrived with our guide Karima.

Our first visit was to the main Park 28 Panfilov Guardsmen, a memorial for soldiers who sacrificed their lives while defending Moscow from the German invasion during the Second World War. In front of the giant black monument, there is a flame that burns all the time.

The other attraction near the Park is the Ascension Church designed by Andrei Pavlovich Zenkov in 1904. Built entirely of timber without a single nail, this multi-coloured building was the only one that survived the 1911 earthquake. After the Russian Revolution the cathedral was used as a museum but in May 1995, it was handed back to the Russian Orthodox Church.

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In 1997, it was reopened for religious services. Every Monday, after the 12 noon Mass, the relic is opened for the public to pay homage. This 56-metre tall architectural marvel is the world's second tallest wooden Cathedral. In the eastern part of the park, there is the museum of Folk Musical Instruments where more than 1,000 items are housed. Outside, there are so many activities. There one can even see people feeding birds.

From there, we went to the Silver Spoon restaurant for a meal. Dishes similar to Naan, Korma, noodles, etc were available. After tasting the country's popular dish of horse meat, we went to the prime market Green Bazaar. In this widely spread market all kinds of items are sold at affordable prices. It is crowded always as locals as well as tourists throng this area. It is noteworthy that the fish and meat market there was very clean like any other places in the area. Each store sold one particular meat with photos of the animal displayed outside. As there were so many things to buy, we earmarked the last day of our stay in the city for the purpose.

Our next stop was Presidential Park, which is a unique site with fountains and other attractions. In the evenings people come here in large numbers to relax. At the Amusement Park, people of all ages have something to enjoy. The last of the day's visit was to Arbat Street, which can be compared to the Hyde Park of London. It is more live from 11 pm to 2 am. Individual as well as group performances are held most of the time. They also get donations from the public. We did not stay there for long as we had to go to Saty village, more than 200 kms away, the next day.
   
After a heavy breakfast at home, we left for our two-day stay in the village where more exciting experiences were awaiting. The village is a perfect contrast to the hustle and bustle of Almaty. As it is a settlement all the villagers knew each other. In the house we stayed, all the family members were engaged in one job or another like cooking, washing clothes and utensils, serving food, etc. The village is calm after sunset. This quiet village helps one to immerse himself in the vast landscapes and endless horizons. Featuring majestic rock formations, narrow valleys, and endless skies, the village is an inclusive escape for everyone.

Our late lunch consisted of local delicacies. Then we rushed to the sky resort Shimbulak, largest in Central Asia, located at an altitude of 2,260 metres above sea level. We took a cable car to the top Kok Tolee. Facilities like skiing, snowboarding and paragliding, parks, hotels and restaurants were there.

 Kolsay Lakes National Park is located 10 km from the border with Kyrgyzstan. Often referred to as "Pearls of Tien Shan", the Park's main features are the Kolsay Lakes and the scenic Lake Kaindy within the park. Lakes of landslide-tectonic origin were formed in 1887 and 1911 on the Kaindy and Kolsay rivers.

Midway to Kolsay Lake is the Charyn Canyon, one of the most unique natural monuments of Kazakhstan. It offers spectacular views of vertical cliffs, ancient castles created by wind, sun and rain. Even though small in size Charyn is similar to the Grand Canyon in the US state of Arizona. So, it is affectionately called its ‘little brother’.

This region's natural diversity is amazing – from arid deserts and scenic canyons to lush valleys, snow-peaked mountains and turquoise lakes. So, this territory is called Zhetisu, which means “Seven Rivers”.

So, pack your bags and fasten your seat belts to go to Almaty!

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First published:

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AlmatyAsthanaKazakhstan

Jose Kalathil

Jose Kalathil

Jose Kalathil is s senior journalist and can be contacted at kalathil.jose@gmail.com

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